Looking Deep Into the Eyes of a Thief: pickpocket crime against tourist in the Mexico City Metro (subway)
(Sept. 21, 2002)

Mexico City also has a well earned reputation as being one of the most polluted places on earth.   It made our eyes water and gave us both a sore throat that lasted days after we left the brown cloud behind.  The smog was worse than anything that I had ever seen in Los Angeles or Phoenix before.  About the only place that I can think of as being similar in air quality is breathing directly into a tailpipe of a semi truck needing a tune up.

Mexico City also had a wonderful side.  Despite being a large city people were very kind and friendly.  It had museums and art galleries that draw tourist from all over the world.  We visited the large and ultra modern city zoo that we were told is comparable to any of the best zoos in the world.  It even had Giant Panda Bears which is an impressive feat considering that China is very picky about where they allow their precious bears to relocate.  This place of extremes is truly the mover and shaker of Mexico and the entire Spanish speaking world.

Mexico City also suffers from a serious level of crime.  Before we arrived we had been reading in Mexican news papers about the terrible crimes being committed specifically against foreign tourists.  A reoccurring theme in the papers was how a taxi would pick up foreign tourists, drive them somewhere out of sight, beat the daylights out of them, and steal everything they have.  Many are never heard from again.  Our guide book even warned us not to carry our ATM cards with us because tourists were also getting kidnapped and forced to visit cash machines throughout the city to make withdraws.  We were not interested in riding in a cab after reading all that.

Luckily one of the most impressive things in Mexico City was the subway system locally called "El Metro."  In a city of 22 million it moves 4.7 million people a day.  It costs a fraction of a cab ride at less than US$0.20 per person to go just about anywhere in the city including major tourist attractions, national bus stations, and even the international airport.  Our guide books warned about pick pockets that roam the Metro and specifically target foreign tourists.  This type of crime is seemingly very preventable and at least better than getting beat up or worse.  If you do not have anything in your pockets, especially a wallet or passports, there is nothing to grab.   We use a money belt worn under our clothes and I kept our camera completely under my jacket and my arm firmly over it.  The Metro was always too hot for a jacket but I wore it anyway.  When we were on extended outings we would carry daypacks with food, water, sunscreen, and rain gear.  None of this is very valuable but still a headache to replace if stolen.  We would wear our daypacks backwards so everything was in front of us.  At first we thought this looked weird and paranoid but after seeing the locals on the Metro do exactly the same thing we knew it was a good idea.

I do not want to sound like a country bumpkin but I had never ridden a subway much before and never experienced pickpockets with their hands in my pockets in my life.   All that has changed after my recent visit to Mexico City.  We rode the Metro almost every day for twelve days as we explored the sights.  I was impressed with its efficiency and speed.  We heard that it was modeled after the one in Paris.  I can not imagine how this monster of a city survived without it.  We tried to avoid rush hours on the Metro because our books said that these were the worst times for pickpockets.   Occasionally, the train cars were very full and people pushed and shoved to cram on the crowded cars.  I do not believe that we have ever heard a Mexican complain about anything the entire five months we were in the country and the crowded Metro was no different.  The locals are masters at "going with the flow" and smiling the whole time.  We did the same and squeezed on when necessary.

It was during these crowded times that the pickpockets tried to grab our stuff.   We experienced three separate attempts during our twelve days there.  You can feel their grubby little hands going into your pockets but they are quick and it is hard to figure out exactly who is responsible.  The usual scenario, as I experienced it, goes like this.  The thieves work in groups of five or so.  It was impossible to get an exact count and I believe that they use innocent passengers in their scheme.   They start by standing around the more crowded stations, waiting for targets.  They do not stand together and they all act like they do not know each other.  When they see you about to board they all rush up to the platform to predetermined positions and act like they are trying to get on at the last minute.   The last one in line pushes everyone obnoxiously hard and everyone is pressed up against each other.  At this moment your body is completely in contact with someone else's body and it makes it hard to tell who is innocently pressing against you and who is probing for your wallet.  By the time you feel a suspicious hand in your pocket it is gone. 

After the first time I was furious.  Although they never got anything from me the (act) thought of being violated like this made me mad.  What nerve these people have.   I dreamed up all kinds of things I could do.  I thought of putting glue, ink, and even a mouse trap in my pocket for them to find.  I even thought of fake props that would appear like things too vile to mention on a family web site but looking real enough to really gross the thieves out.  I never did any of these things but I still (felt) had the need to get back at them somehow.  I knew that we still had to ride the Metro several more times and that they would strike again.  I wanted to catch someone's hand in my pocked the next time.  Big men are too cumbersome to make good pickpockets in such tight areas.  This profession attracts small quick men.   They would be easily over powered in a direct physical battle.  I was eager for the chance to give them what they deserve. 

The next day we had to switch trains in a crowded station that our guide book specifically pointed out as notoriously bad.  The platform did not seem overly crowded and I looked around for people scooting us out.  I thought I saw nothing.  Our visiting friend, Patti, said that she was pretty sure a few guys were checking us out.   I told her that they were just staring at her because she has naturally blond hair which is rare in Mexico and considered the pinnacle of beauty by Mexican men.  I would soon eat these words because looking back she was exactly right.  As we were getting on the train it got crowded quickly.  I got on last thinking that I could protect Cindie and Patti this way.  Several people wiggled in-between me and the girls that I was trying to protect.  As I was stepping on the train a big push came from several people behind me.  It all happened so fast.  I felt someone's open hands press firmly against both of my rear pockets.  I was not convinced at the time but now I am pretty sure that they were checking for a wallet.  I asked the girls if they were OK and if anyone had tried anything.  Cindie looked frightened and Patti told me indirectly in a combination of sign language and cryptic English (you never know who speaks English) that someone had tried to rob her and they were standing behind her.  I already had enough because my back pockets had been checked but to violate and frighten my wife and her friend made me boil over.  I scanned the crowd and saw several young men looking down and seeming frustrated that they had come up with nothing. 

I said openly and firmly in Spanish, "No me gusto Rataros" translated to English "I do not like thieves (derogatory)"  to the close quartered crowd.   One of the suspected thieves immediately looked up and straight into my eyes in defiance.  I knew he was guilty.  He said nothing but we stared at each other long enough to have a complete non verbal conversation.  This conversation transcended language barriers and cultural differences.  He said silently "Hey Gringo I do not like being called a Rataro".  I felt strong and confident from months of riding and a 100 pound weight advantage.  I glared back and the pure unmistakable rage on my face let him know that once I get my hands on him he was in for some vigilante justice.  Neither of us looked away for several seconds and I fruitlessly tried to inch my way closer in the over crowded train car.  He saw this and his looked changed to fear and he quickly looked down.  I knew at that moment that I had won.  I still wanted to get my hands on him but I saw that the train was coming to a stop and that he was going to get out before me.  I said aloud to him and his suspected accomplices "no mas" or in English "no more." No one looked up which empowered me even more.  The train stopped and the doors flew open and they quickly disappeared into the crowded station. 

In some strange way I am glad that this all happened.  Nothing was taken from us and I took from these experiences knowledge of how pickpockets work.  I realize that every scam is different and pickpockets on the beach will have a different maneuver than the ones we dealt with on the Metro but some elements must be similar.  Thieves like to look for areas where tourist are abundant and use some form of diversion to distract you and get your valuables. 

I still prefer the little traveled back roads where a diversion is watching the sun set and the only thing of real value is a mans honesty and that can never be stolen.

Tim Travis

The metro at rush hour, a friendly gesture is always welcome.

Some of Mexico Cities skyline.

The Zocalo.

The Zocalo at rush hour.

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