| Friday, April 19, 2002 1:45 p.m., MDT Internet Cafe, Avenida Obregon,
Santa Rosalia . . . 2 blocks from the Golfo California / Sea of Cortez Dear All:
By the numbers . . . a little over a month since I left Hayward, California, two weeks
since I crossed the border into Tijuana. 779 miles by bike so far, 414 of those in Mexico
(with another 250 by bus, but more on that later).
In brief summary, I can´t imagine being any happier . . . this has turned out to be so
much more (in every way), than I had imagined.
Touring in Mexico is definitely a lesson in learning Zen principles . . . although the
map and/or the guidebook may say something is so, for instance, that you can get lunch or
something to drink at Kilometer 255 on the Transpeninsular Highway, or that you can
arrange for a burro trip to see the cave paintings from San Ignacio to San Francisco de La
Sierra, the REALITY is often quite different. Thus, I have had to learn not to plan to
carefully, or get my hopes up to much about seeing or doing any specific thing. However,
the trade-off is the fun and excitement of the unexpected . . . both good and bad.
For instance, yesterday, on a truly amazing 47 mile ride through the Baja dessert
(actually, the third such day of riding), I was having an amazing gentle climb up towards
the large, Volcano of the Three Virgins (not sure of the story behind that one). As I
crested the lava flow and rushed down the other side at 35 miles per hour, with a view for
miles of the reds, greens, browns, and golds of the dessert, I couldn't help but grin.
Fortunately, I had stopped for an early lunch after 14 miles of riding, because the
restaurant where I had planned on eating, at mile 27, no longer existed. Unfortunately, as
it looked to be an easy day's ride, I had not brought my extra gallon of water (which
weighs allot). Sure enough, Murphy's law was in full force: the days I DO bring the water,
I don't need it, the one time I don't, I ran out . . . the last 4 miles I was SOOOO
thirsty . . . lesson learned.
On a better note of learning important lessons. Three days out of Tijuana, I had my
first experience I had been knowing would come, but dreading . . . a FLAT TIRE. Damn, if
it also wasn't raining. Fortunately, the flat happened at an underpass and I was
protected. Unfortunately, my patch kit rubber cement had long since disintegrated and when
I opened the tube, there was nothing but air. Fortunately, I travel with 4 spare tires.
Unfortunately, I went through three of them, as I had TWO MORE flats the next day. My tire
changing skills WEREN'T up to par . . . but they are now, boy, and, knock wood, have had
200 plus miles without incident.
Well, that's not completely true. I have also had THREE broken rear spokes! But again,
though I was dreading more NrealNrepairs, I actually had a great time fixing
the wheel, which was not tough at all. My feelings of competence and confidence are
GREATLY enhanced.
Note to Dennis and Tony at Stone Cycle Shop: I am going to have my friend Nancy come in
and pick up about half a dozen 290 mm spokes and 15 or 18 292 mms (the non-drive rear
size, as those are the three that broke).
A brief list of the towns I have visited: Tijuana (when last I wrote), KM 58
campground, by the beach en route to Ensenada, Ensenada and it's Malecon (boardwalk), and
Playa Estero, the Bufador (natural blowhole, where sea water shoots 70 feet into the air,
on the Punta Banda peninsula southwest of Ensenada, San Vicente, San Quitin, and El
Rosario. From there I took a bus 250 miles through the large Desierto Central de Baja, to
Guerrero in Baja California Sur (South), the site of Scamman's Lagoon / Laguna Ojo de
Liebre, one of the two lagoons where the gray whales annually mate and breed (which,
unfortunately, I missed as it ends in march . . .) From there back on the back, for the
aforementioned 3 day, 150 mile ride across the Vizcaino dessert, crossing from the Pacific
Coast to the Gulf of Cortez coast.
My favorite parts so far:
El Rosario, a serene one street town, about 20 miles into the dessert from the Pacific
Coast. All day on the ride there, I had the dessert on my left and the Pacific on my right
. . .
Santa Rosalia, where I am now, a town developed by the French (!), and the close of the
19th century to mine the copper nearby. In addition to a french bakery, and a church
designed by Gustave Eiffel (he of the tower), in Paris, then shipped over in pieces and
assembled, the town is made up of three long avenidas, running west up into an arroyo,
crossed by 9 very short calles. Almost all the buildings are from 1880 to 1910, and,
unlike the usual cement/cinder block construction of the Baja Peninsula, are built of
imported timbers, most of two stories, with great balconies . . . sort of a simplified
wooden New Orleans, if you can imagine it . . .
I am getting quite used to the Mexican landscape, pace, and way of life . . . although
my Spanish is execrable, I can make myself understood, and people are incredibly helpful
and patient. E.g., on the highway, even the largest truck drivers (18 wheelers!), will
slow when they approach me, and not pass until it is safe (a courtesy all the more
remarkable when viewed in light of the way they treat other drivers . . . don't ask!).
Too, my concept of luxury hotels has changed . . . if it's clean and has hot water 24
hours a day . . . I'm in heaven.
Last night, a cricket in my room kept screeching all night long, and finally woke me up
at 2:30 a.m. from a dream in which I was living in a house infested with, of course, noisy
crickets. That would not have been so bad, except that the school bell rang at 8:00 this
morning, followed by the Principal's voice booming out over a megaphone, and then a loud,
rousing patriotic melody. Ah well, it was time to get up anyway, and the day was
beautiful, and I had to go buy a baguette, and tour the Compagnie de Boleo Headquarters
museum, and the harbor. And anyway, for $17 a night, who's going to complain.
Tomorrow, down the coast of the Gulf for three days, whence a bus to La Paz and a tour
of the southern cape, i.e., Los Cabos ... Cabo San Lucas, San Jose del Cabo, and Todo
Santos. . . . AT LEAST THAT'S THE PLAN . . . and you know what I've learned about plans .
. .
well, my two hours time is up . . .
those of you I owe e-mails, please be patient, i WILL respond . . . it is really great
getting them, and definitely nice to hear about home . .
again, take care all . . . wish you were here, and having an amazing adventure.
all the best, Jeffrey |
