Hello all,
Hope you are all well, where ever you all are. Will try to keep this as
short as possible as we´ve not managed to send an update for a while and
this could become quite long.
Spent a few days in the Peruvian capital of Lima which is the cleanest
safest capital city yet, despite lots of bad reports from people we have met
along the way. Really enjoyed the architecture and gemmed up on Peruvian
culture in the national museum. Did take a look at the beach from the cliffs
but decided not to get wet after our previous experiences with Peruvian
beaches (and didn't want to get close enough to smell it). Met up with
friends we'd met along the way previously, and enjoyed Lima's cafe society.
>From Lima we travelled back up into the Andes to Hauncayo where we planned
to do some more trekking in the mountains. Unfortunately Jo became ill in
Lima and just got worse. In the end we just got a bus back to Lima and on
to Pisco as Jo wasn't fit for anything, let alone trekking.
Pisco was hot, sunny with a really nice atmosphere reminiscent of an English
seaside town. Very lively. Jo perked up a bit and we took a boat trip to
the Isla's Ballestes which is the poor mans Galapagos. This was fantastic
as we got to see loads of birds icluding Humboldt penguins which are just so
cute! The best thing was the sea lions though. Thousands of them. The
noise was incredible. It was just like being IN a Wildlife On One
programme. They were very curious and swam right up to the boat, it was
amazing. We also saw a couple of males fighting - they really are fierce
and all the babies (they gestate for 11 months and gave birth in January).
We also saw some dead babies as the males will kill boy babies if they get
the chance - it's a tough job for the females to protect them.
Later that day we visited the Reserva Nacional de Paracas, where we saw rock
formations 34 million years old (essentially stripy cliffs with knobbles
on!)and the desert where we were lucky enough to see a colony of about 30
flamingo's (usually only a few as out of season now). We also spent a few
hours on a NICE beach of golden sand and CLEAN clear water (you could see to
the bottom) which in our book is a minor miracle in Peru.
(CAR HORNS!!! I`m sorry to keep on about this but it really is bloody
annoying. We are in the middle of the desert there is sand as far as the eye
can see. We are on our small minibus and there is one other vehicle in the
desert (a taxi carrying locals). With all that room our driver manages to
cut up the taxi and then they each start beeping their hornes at each other
- Aaagghhh! Back in Pisco I found an ice cream seller that had one of those
old hand held bike horns. You can imagine the confusion when I tried to
explain that I didn´t want to buy an ice cream but how much did he want for
his horn - still not great at Spanish - Steve)
>From Pisco we took a taxi the 2 hours to Ica - 7 adults, 2 children, 1 car
and a numb bottom! Here we went SANDBOARDING. Like snow boarding but in
the middle of the desert on HUGE sand dunes (Cowabunga Dude - is that right
or is that what those turtle things say? - Steve). Bloody brilliant! We
took out beach buggies which were a laugh in themselves (wouldn`t let me
drive - Steve), careening up and down these dunes. When we arrived at the
'practice' slope it was 200 metres down and nearly vertical. With shaking
legs we gave it a go and guess what? Despite a lack of coordination and a
reputation for clumsiness I could do it!(I'm writing this now, Steves gone
to the loo)AND I WAS BETTER THAN HIM! Which is a first (Bollocks - Steve).
After our practice which was very fast we had to do it properly ie. we had
to wax our boards. Not much differnce thought I - Ha! We went faster than
the speed of light, once you fell you were going so fast you couldn't stand
and you just kept going on your bike! It was the best fun ever and we will
definately be giving snow boarding a go in New Zealand (Better bring your
skis Mo - Steve).
>From Ica we stopped in Nasca for a day, home of the famous Nasca Lines.
These are long lines, huge geometric shapes and animals drawn by the ancient
Nasca civilisation in the desert, for who knows what reason. To see them
you have to fly over them. Which meant Steve had to get into a five seater
Cessna where you could touch both sides of the plane. 10mg of valium and a
shove accomplished that and then we were up. I loved it - the lines were
fascinating but it was an experience in itself just to be in such a small
plane. Steve wasn't so keen as the plane banks SHARPLY to the left and then
to the right to give both sides a decent view. It was a bit icky towards
the end (the German girl in front was bad). It didn't do me alot of good
either really as my stomach was bad - again!
So we went to Arequipa, an attractive town made of sillar, a white rock. I
spent alot of time in the room - I've actually had dysentary but am
recovering now thanks to a course of antibiotics (special thanks to Kirsten
and Maria for that one I think!). As a result we missed out on the hiking
(again, which secretly pleased Steve I think) but caught up with all the
American sitcoms and world news. You know that guy arrested (mistakenly) by
the FBI in S. Africa, well that was one of Steve's uncles! Steve nearly got
himself mugged, but for a shop keeper that warned him and shooed off this
gang of teens, before telling him to run back to the hotel. Steve put his
wallet in his pants and did as he was told...what an Englishman will do for
a beer at night!
Now we are finally in Cusco, for the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. The
realisation of a dream. A trek to an ancient civilisation, lost to the
world for years, and even to the Spanish when they conquered, up in the
clouds of the Andes. We will be following a 2000 year old trail.
Steve's boss Bri (ex boss, I`m never going back!!! - Steve)is flying out
from England to join us and will be here in Cusco on the 7th - with a jar of
marmite we hope. In the meantime we are discovering Cusco. An ancient city
itself, the oldest in Peru, it has been continously occupied for thousands
of years. We will also be going to an English pub later to watch the footie
(Man Utd. v Leeds)which is not exactly why we're here but Steve fancies a
pint of Boddingtons ($4!!). Have some friends here also who we will be
hanging out with - went to an Irish bar last night - we ARE in Peru honest!!
Anyway, will catch up again after the trail,
Take care and have fun,
Lots of love,
Jo and Steve xxxxxxx
P.S. It has been pissing down here - it's just like being at home!! (Wayne,
we have used our poncho`s - Steve). For the rest of you who haven`t seen
them they are bright yellow and we both look like two giant Wizbits.
