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Cindie's Peru #2 Daily Journal
Travel Writing, Blog, Travelogue
Huallanca, Peru to Copacabana, Bolivia
(Sept. 15 - Oct., 31 2003)

WB01618_.gif (290 bytes)  Previous Journal Thumbnail Photo Page for this Journal

Tim's Letter for this Journal

Next Journal  WB01620_.gif (288 bytes)
Sept 15 Huallanca.  Rest day.  We met Fritz for breakfast today.  As we were eating breakfast we saw two cyclists with a dog go by.  I ran out and stopped them, they were from Germany, spoke fluent English and were traveling with their dog too.  Wow.  They had arrived in Buenas Aires and rode down to Tierra de Fuego and back up the other side. They plan to ride  to Colombia and catch a boat to Panama.  They told us about the road ahead. There are some really tough spots.  They took 2 weeks to ride through an area we plan to take the bus through. Confirming why we are taking the bus.

Huallanca is a nice little town, the people are friendly and the architecture is interesting.  It has been a good town to take a break in.  I was feeling better and was ready to ride.

 
Sept 16 Huallanca - Tingo Chico  Ah on the road again.  At least it was warmer.  We had a steady down hill all the way to La Union where we had lunch.  At La Union we asked where the road to Pachas was and every one pointed down hill.  After 5 kilometers we asked another man if this was the road to Pachas and he said no the road across the river is the correct road.  We had to ride all the way back to town and cross the bridge to the other side.  The bridge we crossed was the worst one yet.  Tim had to ride it, I barely could walk across it.  The bridge was originally built for a car but half the bridge was missing and it was used for pedestrian traffic only.  I could feel the planks of wood sage as I pushed my bike across it.  Well we added 10 kilometers (6 miles) to our ride today but what can you do.  Wrong turns are going to happen.

We climbed up to Pachas and took a break.  The local drunk found us and told us he was king of the town and he was also god.  Quite a crowd had gathered around us so we decided to move on.

We arrived in Tingo Chico about an hour later.  Fritz lead the way down the hill, he just zipped down the road, I on the other had was pretty tired.  We stayed in a local Hospedaje with no name.  We paid 5 soles ($1.50) per bed.  Tim and I shared a bed so I would have to say this was the cheapest room ever.  The room did not have electricity.  I made soup for dinner and we all went to sleep early.

62 km dirt
Sept 17 Tingo Chico - Chavanillo  We had a long climb today so we got on the road about 9:15 am.  The climb was gradual at first but the road began to get rough.  We were basically riding on river rocks.  After about 10 kilometers my bladder began to hurt again.  We stopped for a rest and I rode another 5 kilometer.  I could not ride anymore.  I could not sit on the seat without pain.  We stopped in a town for lunch.  I caught a taxi to Chavanillo and the boys rode in two and half hours later.

The people began to change after Tingo Chico.  We saw and old man sitting on a log, as we passed by he asked for a tip.  That was a strange thing to ask for.  Then the kids started yelling Gringo Gringo, this was nothing new, however they added, Plata, Plata, after it, meaning money money.  Give me money.  I never feel comfortable in an area where people just ask for money.  The adults also called us Gringos, a man looked me straight in the eye and said Gringa, this made me shiver.  I did not like the tone of his voice.

I arrived in town long before Tim and Fritz.  The ride here in the taxi was hard, my bike would have killed me.  I found us a room at Hostel Yarowich.  Decent enough, it had a clean bathroom and yes a hot shower.  We paid 7 soles per bed.  Ok later we heard mice running around the ceiling.  Not so good for a good nights sleep.

Ascended 740 m (2427 ft) descended 245 m (804 ft)

37 km dirt
Sept 18 Chavanillo.  Fritz decided to move on and Tim and I took a rest day.  We said good bye to Fritz, I do hope we see him down the road again.  I need a rest day.  The thought of getting on the bike was not very appealing at the moment.

We pretty much stayed in the room most of the time.  Tim worked on his letter and I took a nap or two.  I do not even like going out for lunch or dinner.  The food is terrible, rice with a piece of tough chicken or beef.  The sanitary conditions are quite rough in a few of these resturants.  Also, the people just stare at us and this makes me feel uncomfortable.  Tonight there was a big gathering at the plaza.  I thought I recognized the sound of the chant they were saying and then I remembered that I had heard it in Huarez when the protestors went by.  We stayed in our room the rest of the night.

 
Sept 19 Chavanillo - Huanuco.  We woke up early to ride, we knew we had a long day.  First we had to climb over a pass at 3950 meters (13,000 feet) and then it was 54 kilometers down to town, on a rough dirt road.  The climb to the pass was slow but the scenery was interesting.  Still people were asking us for money.  I can not figure out why people in this area behave this way.  We have traveled through other parts of Peru and people were usually friendly or just left us alone.  In this stretch we even had boys throwing rocks at us.  I can not wait to get out of this area.

Finally we were descending down we would drop from 3950 m (13,000 feet) to 1850 m (6,660 ft) in 54 km.  The road was not as smooth as we liked but we pushed on.  We needed to get to town before dark.  Then it happened, while we were barreling down the mountain.  I heard a thud and then a groan, I stopped and turned around to see Tim laid out on the ground.  Some how he had wrecked.  He was up quick and walking around, with a limp.  He had put a hole in his tights and had a large cut with dirt and rocks on his knee.  I wanted to clean up his knee, he wanted to push on.  Push on we did.  The road was rough and we still pushed on.  Four hours later we were near town and near exhaustion.  The only time we stopped was when our hands hurt from using the brakes.  The road was so rough that I was starting to get a headache from all the bouncing around.  Tim was starting to tire too.  We passed some police officers, they usually just wave us on but this time they stopped us to chat.  We chatted for 15 minutes and then pushed on.  The last 10 kilometers lasted forever. 

We finally arrived and rode to the Plaza de Armas.  We paid 27 soles per night for a small room with hot water and cable TV.   Tim's knee is cut pretty deep, there is no way to stitch it, the cut is wide.  Tim cleaned up his knee, I put Neosporin on the cut and covered it with a sterile pad.

ascended 555 m (1820 ft) descended 2040 m (6691 ft.)

72 km
Sept 20 Huanuco.  We pretty much rested from our long ride of the day before.  It was nice to sit back and watch movies.  
Sept 21 Huanuco.  Another rest day.  Tim is working on his letter.  His knee is looking better.  
Sept 22 Huanuco.  Tim is still working on his letter.  His knee is not looking as good as it should.  We decided to stay another day to finish the letter and let Tim's knee heal some more.  I am very much afraid that it will get infected in this country full of bacteria.

We were heading out to lunch when we came across the large crowd in front of the municipal building.  People were gathered in front of the door and Police with riot gear were blocking the entrance.  Suddenly the crowd surged, people began to run, someone pushed a vender cart over that had apples and other fruit on it.  Some people picked up apples and began to throw them at the police.  Again, another surge and people began to run again.  We watched in horror as a women beat on the Plexiglas shield of a police officer with a stick, then he beat on her with his baton.  We saw one man running and three police officers in pursuit.  A police officer held one man down while three other officers beat on him.  Tim did captures some of this on video.  We will probably wait until we are out of the country or at least far from here before we post them.  I have never been so close to a violent protest, all I wanted to do was run away, I imagined shots ringing out and someone lying on the ground dead, thank god this never happen.  We left to find a place to eat lunch.  No one else seemed to be too disturbed by the whole thing.  When we returned back to the hotel I asked the desk clerk what was going on.  He said that the street venders with carts want to be able to push their carts of wares around the Plaza de Armas and sell to the public.  The city forbids it because there is so much traffic around the plaza. So for now the plaza stays closed to street venders.

 
Sept 23 Huanuco.  Well Tim's letter is taking some time to put together.  Plus his knee is still wide open, it has not closed yet.  I really do not mind waiting, I wander around town doing chores like shopping.  I found the huge market today.  The people are friendly and enjoy talking with a stranger.  I also need to find a place to mend Tim's tights.  This is one of the things I like about Peru, I can find a Taylor easy.  Everyone with a sewing machine is lined up in the same area.  I bought some fabric from one shop for 3 soles (0.87 cents) and I had the patch put on at another shop for 2 soles (58 cents).  
Sept 24 Huanuco.  Yeah Tim finished his letter and it is ready to be sent.  Off to the internet cafe we went.  While we were there we met Edwin, a cyclist from Peru.  He was very interesting so we decided to go out to dinner with him.

I am beginning to think that every touring cyclist is a bit of an odd duck.  We must be too.  Anyway, Edwin certainly did not fit the stereotype of a Peruvian.  He is 30, single and has no kids.  He went to university, is an administrator and speaks English.  We went out to dinner and then to a disco to listen to some music.  Edwin has met and ridden with many Europeans he even speaks some German, however, we are the first Americans he has met.  We really need to get out more, people think we are all like in the movies.

 
Sept 25 Huanuco.  Stayed up a little to late to get out the door today.  Edwin managed to get out the door and we said good bye to him at 9:30 am.  I finished packing and watched a couple of movies.  I will miss cable TV for a while.  
Sept 26 Huanuco - Ambo.  I woke up last night to the rain hitting the window.  Great.  This morning at 6:30 am the sky was black and the roads were wet.  Now is not the time for rain, I have a bad case of cabin fever and need to move on from this town.

We went to the internet cafe and ordered some things for our friend Karen from Arizona to bring us when she gets here.  Karen is flying into Cusco on October 5th.  It will be nice to see a familiar face.  Karen is coming to Peru on a project and we are lucky to be able to meet up with her while she is here.  We now need to get to Cusco, which means we need to take a bus somewhere.  We were planning to take a bus through the bad parts of the mountains anyway.

So out the door we went at 11:00 am, a little later than usual.  Not ten minutes down the road it started to rain.  The weather was frighteningly black and gloomy.  Tim wanted to stay in the hotel and I urged him to get out the door.  It was obvious that we were not going to get to far today, the rain was coming.  We started looking for a hotel in this very populated valley.  We found a hostel in Ambo.  Just as we arrived at the door it began to rain hard.  Well at least we got to ride today.  They wanted 10 soles per bed for a room without a bath and a shower with cold water.  We negotiated on 15 soles for the room.

ascended 270 m (885 ft) descended 100 m (328 ft)

25 km
Sept 27 Ambo - Huariaca  It was a bright and sunny morning.  As we left Ambo we were again stopped by the national police, all they really wanted to do was talk.  We steadily climbed up the valley following the river.  We stopped for lunch in San Rafael.  People are at lot more friendly in this part of Peru.

We arrived in Huariaca ready to settle in for a hot shower.  We stayed at Hostel Rosa, a pleasant place.  We had a room with two beds, a hot shower, and TV.  Tim got his hot shower in and then the electricity went out.  We went out to dinner and found an internet cafe, we could not believe it.  This is a small town but it has a brand new internet cafe.  After interneting we went back to the room and I finally got my hot shower.  Hot showers are such a luxury, so the next time you take a hot shower, think how lucky you are.

ascended 950 m (3116 ft) descended 380 m (1246 ft)

45 km
Sept 28 Huariaca (2900 m 9,512 ft.) - Cerro de Pasco (4380 m, 14,366 ft.).  We were awoke this morning at 5:15 am by the hostel owner, it was a case of mistaken identity.  We were not too upset we had to get going early today we knew we had quite a climb ahead of us.  The morning was bright and sunny not a cloud in the sky.  We had a bit of a tailwind, a tailwind is always welcome.

We steadily climbed up towards Cerro de Pasco.  I wanted to stop every now and then but Tim kept us moving, we did not want to get caught in any afternoon rain.  We finally stopped for a lunch break.   There was not restaurant, just a small store.  We bought some snacks and sat down for a much needed break.  We did not get any peace, the store owner was drunk, when the shop owner found out we were from the United States, he asked us for an address.  Tim told him his name was Mick Jagger, he lived at 714-69 Stoner Way, Rocky Mountain, Arizona.  He got an address alright.  He still would not leave us alone.  He wanted us to buy him whiskey, no way.  We ended up leaving sooner than we wanted.

We were in sheep herding country again.  We saw our first llamas, I was beginning to think that they were a myth or just around for the tourists.

The air was getting thinner and the sky was growing darker.  It started to rain on us.  Then the sun came out, then it rained again.  We passed sheep herders along the way and the boys would run with us until they got tired.  It was all in fun.  Just a week ago I would have thought that they wanted to take something off our bikes, but not this time.  It is hard to change the assumptions we make about people.  Experience is the only thing that teaches us to think differently.  Not propaganda from the government, media, or other people.

Which leads me into the assumptions that people make about Americans.  Lately we have been experiencing the assumptions that people make about Americans.  First they think that we are arrogant, I guess when you have everything you want it could appear that we are arrogant, people also assume that we are our government and when you go and start a war in another country, I guess that can be considered arrogant.  But to think that some nationality is one way or the other without ever meeting them.  Well that is just plain ignorant.  I have certainly met my share of ignorant people on this trip.  May be we have changed their opinion of Americans may be we haven't.

We arrived in Cerro de Pasco, tired and hungry.  It took us 6.5 hours riding time to get here.  We stopped in front of Hostel Santa Rosa.  I went in and looked at the room.  A room cost 17 soles per night for a matrimonial.  When I returned to Tim there was a huge crowd gathered around him and he was talking to a couple from Hong Kong.  We made plans to meet them for dinner.  We carried our belongs to the second floor and I took the a shower.  The shower was hot but it was so dam cold in the shower that I was frozen when I finished.  It is very very cold here.

We met Fung Man Keung and Choi So Chun for dinner and learned all about China and Hong Kong.  Fung and Choi have been traveling for the last 2 years and are getting ready to return back to Hong Kong.  We talked for hours, they were an extremely fascinating couple.

ascended 1440 m (4723 ft) descended 115 m (377 ft)

55 km
Sept 29 Cerro de Pasco.  Rest day.  I stayed in bed for hours, it was cold and I had a headache that just would not go away.  
Sept 30 Cerro de Pasco.  We were planning to leave today.  No such luck.  We opened the window shutter to see what the weather was like and it was snowing, not only snowing it was a blizzard.  Hey, this is suppose to be spring.  I sulked all day.  I did not want to stay another day in this town.  I could see my breath in the hotel lobby.  Well at least the people here were friendly.  The restaurant across the street served the best food we have had in a long time.  
Oct 1 Cerro de Pasco - Carhuamayo. We woke up to sunny blue skies.  We left about 10:15 am after a few photos with the hotel owner.  We climbed back out of town the way we came in and up and over a small pass and then we were going down hill just fast enough so we did not have to pedal.

Soon the sky clouded up and before we knew it was hailing on us.  We found a restaurant to take refuge in.  We were wet and getting pretty cold.  We had sweet potatoes, rice and chicken with a mint green sauce for lunch.  The food is changing and for the better.  Still it cost 4 soles ($1.10).  We waited for the rain to clear and we jumped on our bikes and head on down the road.  The wind was cold and my hands were freezing because my gloves were wet.  Another rain cloud followed us into Carhuamayo.  Once we were in town the sky cleared and we were ever so tempted to ride on.  We chose not to and looked at a couple of hostels.  We stayed at Hostel la Union along the highway for 20 soles for two beds.  It does not have a hot shower, I am glad we brought our own.  Let me explain.  We have a 10 liter bag that we use to carry water.  If we boil water in our 4 liter pot and add 6 liters of cold water the water is almost perfect.  Wa la We have a hot shower.  It is amazing how clean you can get with 10 liters of water.  We have used this portable shower in many hotel rooms with cold water.

ascended 260 m descended 455 m

50 km
Oct 2 Carhuamayo - La Oroya.  The sky was blue but it was still cold when we woke up.  We could see our breath in the room.  In the middle of the night I woke up barely able to breath.  My chest felt tight and I was panicking a little.  I had to sit up and calm myself down before I could go back to sleep.

We were dressed and ready to go by 9:00 am.  We started out at a good pace.  We were worried that it was going to rain on us.  We pushed on for nearly 3 hours and covered at least 40 kilometers.  Then we started down the hill towards La Oroya, a mining town.  Again, we were racing time, it could rain at any minute.  About 10 kilometers ( 6 miles) from town the sky opened up and we took cover in an auto mechanics garage.  He let us hang out in his garage until the rain stopped.  We pushed on into La Oroya, again it was raining on us.  This town is notorious for polluted air because a smelter is located in town.  The pollution must have been knocked out of the air from the rain, the air was much cleaner then we expected.  We rode to the far side of town towards Lima to find a hostel.  We stayed in a hostel next to one of the bus stations, it was 20 soles with a very nice hot shower and comfortable room.

As I was looking to by a bus ticket to Lima a taxi driver approached me about riding down in a car.  We negotiated on 50 soles for two people and our bikes, we planned to meet at 8:00 am to go to Lima.

In the evening we went to the Market to pick up some fruit and bread for the ride in the bus to Cusco.  While we were down there a protest blocked the road and no cars could get through.  Neither could taxis, so we had to walk all the way back to our hostel on foot, we already had plenty of exercise for the day.  Ah well what can you do.

ascended 390 m descended 705 m

90 km
Oct 3 La Oroya - Lima.  We woke up early and packed all our baggage.   Tim started to load the bikes on top of the taxi and this is when the trouble started, first they changed drivers on us, then they increased the price to 80 soles, and then there were 3 other people who were also in the car.  This made for a tight squeeze.  Tim was mad that they changed the price and decided that we were not going.  We removed all of baggage from the car, but still they did not come down on the price.  Tim started asking other drivers for a price but they had sent a kid ahead to talk to the other drivers so no one would negotiate.   They actually increased the price.  I guess they thought they might get lucky.  Not this time.  Tim was furious and let them all know what cheats they were.  Tim found a bus and told me to start loading our things on the bus.  That is when the taxi reverted to the original price.

In the car were three other women.  Julie, her mom, and another passenger.  Julie was attending high school and spoke fluent English.  It was fun talking to her and her mother all the way down to Lima.  I know she wants to go to school at UCLA in Los Angeles and I hope she makes it there after high school.  It was great to talk to a young women who had ambition, so many women here do not have any choice but to have children.  I have seen young girls of 14 or 15 who already have children.  This only keeps them in poverty.

We arrived at the Cruz del Sur bus station around 12:00 pm.  I went to buy tickets and found out that the buses to Cusco were all full.  I went down the street 2 blocks to check on Omen, the more expensive bus, and they did not have any seat either.  I went back to Cruz del Sur and we bought a ticked to Arequipa for the evening.  We would arrive in the morning and then take a bus to Cusco from there.  OK it was a little out of our way but hey it was better than staying in Lima.

The guard at the gate told us we would be fed dinner and breakfast on the bus and that they play movies as well.  Well we watched three movies, played BINGO in Spanish, and had dinner.  I was impressed with the service.  The cost of out ticket to Arequipa was 69 soles ($20), they charged 25 soles ($7.25) per bicycle all the way to Cusco.

 
Oct 4 Lima - Arequipa.  We arrived in Arequipa at 8:30am.  None to soon too, we had the worst seats on the bus, right next to the bathroom, and it was starting to smell bad.  I personally can not stomach nasty smells like dirty bathrooms, Tim on the other hand can ignore it.  Men.  I think this is why women do most of the cleaning!

We were glad to get off the bus and into the bus station.  We ate and cleaned up a bit.  Tim's knee is still open after all this time, it is healing but very slowly.  He is real good about keeping it clean and he never complains.  I am sure if I had a cut that deep we would be on a plane back to the States. It must still hurt.

We went to the Plaza de Armas and visited a few churches.  I wanted to visit a convent that has been completely restored but it was way to expensive 25 soles (7.25).  Our budget does not allow for such an expensive place.  Still it is fascinating to think what life was like as a nun.  I have seen more nuns in Peru than any other country. 

We returned to the bus station and met two ladies from the area who were on their way to Lima.  They were just a blast to talk to.  They explained the different types of food in Arequipa.  We told them about Tim's knee and they had to have a look.  One lady insisted that Tim but some alcohol on it.  We had some so Tim scrubbed his knee with it.  I could see the pain on his face, he said, at least I will not be getting infections from the bus station.

 
Oct 5 Arequipa - Cusco  Finally we were on the bus.  We were fed dinner, played bingo and watched a movie.  Of course I could not sleep at all.  Tim faired a little better, I at least heard him snoring some. 

We arrived in Cusco at 5:00 am, at least it was quiet.  We went to the Plaza de Armas first.  Wow what a city.  I will enjoy exploring this city with a mix of Inca architecture and Colonial buildings.  Tim waited in the Plaza with our bikes and I went in search of a room.  Many hostels were full and I had to keep looking.  I met Ismenia in the Plaza, she took me to a few hostels, I knew she would get a commission but I did not mind.  She was pleasant and showed me Hospedaje Iquique.  For 30 soles ($8.70) we have a large room, we need to spread out and fix gear, shared bath with hot shower, and yes a toilet seat, we have hit modernization and it includes breakfast. What a deal.

We met Karen at her hotel, it was good to see a familiar face.  We also met most of the group that Karen was traveling with, quite a few people were from Prescott, our home town, it made me a bit home sick.

 
Oct 6 Cusco. Rest day. Met Jeff and Ted two fellow Americans from California, they were leaving to hike the Inca Trail.   Met Karen for dinner.  
Oct 7 Cusco. Rest day.  Tim's knee is healing but it is still open.  We went to the pharmacy and bought more medicine.  We will wait until Tim's knee is closed before we go to Machu Piccu.  
Oct 8 Cusco. Cleaned tent and water proofed the fly and floor.  Hopefully it will repair all the leaks.  We have not camped in the rain since Ecuador.  
Oct 9 Cusco. Cleaned bikes.  Tim put on new chains.  Painted all the bare spots and tightened down every loose bolt.  The dirt roads of Peru have taken their toll on our bikes and gear.

Met Ted and Jeff as they were returning from doing the Inca Trail.  Oh man, it sounded tough.  Jeff was sick most of the time, possibly food because six other people in his group were sick too.  OK this convinced us not to do the Inca Trail.  Thanks guys.

 
Oct 10 Cusco. Water proofed our goretex jackets and socks, they were starting to leak at the seams.  We went to the Cathedral today and bought a tourist ticket for 35 soles ($10), this ticket covers 16 sites around Cusco including museums and Inca ruins.  The Cathedral was grand and noisy at the same time.  I am use to a church being quiet.  There must have been ten tour groups in the church at the same time, I must have heard 5 languages as well.  The art work in the church is interesting.  There is a painting of the last supper of Christ and in the plate on the table is cooked cuy (guinea pig) an Inca delicacy eaten a festivals.  An interesting mix of beliefs.  
Oct 11 Cusco. We finally got out the door today to enjoy our surroundings.  We took a bus heading to Pisa and got off at the ruins called Tambo Machay it cost us 1.5 soles (0.40 cents) to ride the bus there.  We walked back to Cusco.  The guide books says it takes a half day but we made a whole day out of it.  The first ruins Tambo Macay has an Inca bath and many hawkers.  The next ruins were Pucapucara, they say the ruins were used as a way station for people traveling the Inca trail.  We followed a group along a path and walked to the Qenqo ruins through a valley.  The Qenqo ruins were small but interesting.  A throne was carved out of limestone.  The final ruin Sacsayhuaman, was the largest and closest ruin to Cusco.  It looked like a fortress to me, it had three consecutive tiers of walls one above the other.  The walk back down to Cusco was pleasant and obviously easier than going the other way.  
Oct 12 Cusco.  Hung out in Cusco all day.  
Oct 13 Cusco - Aguas Calientes (Machu Piccu).  The cheap way to Machu Piccu.  Take the bus from Cusco to Urubamba, a two hour ride, that costs 3 soles ($0.90) per person.  Then take a Collectivo (mini bus) from Urubamba to Ollantaytambo, a 45 minute ride, that costs 1 sole (36 cents) per person, be prepared to have people on your lap. This is actually faster than the train.  At Ollantaytambo, buy your train ticket to Machu Piccu.  Get there early to make sure you get a seat.  It is 14 dollars one way per person.  It is cheaper to buy a round trip ticket and pay in US dollars.  You can save about $3.00 per person that way.  Aguas Calientes is expensive, so bring your own food in from Cusco for Machu Piccu, otherwise you are looking at a very expensive lunch at the very expensive hotel.  We did not bring enough water for the day so we had to buy water at 10 soles for a 2.5 liter bottle that usually costs 2 soles, Ouch.  We had student cards from Mexico and entered Machu Piccu at half price.  For a student it costs $10 for and adult it costs $20.  It is better to pay in soles.  We took the bus up and walked back, that saved us $4.50 per person.  It you want to walk up and back it will save you $9.00 per person.  So going to Macchu Piccu is not cheap but is an awesome place to visit.  
Oct 14 Machu Piccu.  It was a perfect day.  We rose at 5:00 am and caught the bus up the hill at 6:15 am.  It cost US$ 4.50, Ouch.  The morning was misty and it looked like it was going to rain.  An hour after we arrived at the ruins the sun came out and was out for most of the day.  It was fantastic.  We arrived early and viewed the ruins before the tour buses started to arrive at 10:00 am.  Just as we arrived at the ruins we saw the Uruguayan couple, Euenco and Denise climb the last few steps up the trail from Aguas Calientes.

We climbed to the Watchman's hut and viewed the ruins from there, this view is famous from all the post cards.  The mist came in and left.  One of the spectacular things about Machu Piccu is the scenery from the site as well, breath taking.  Machu Piccu is perched on a peak that is 400 meters, 1,200 feet above the river below.

The sad thing is that there is no museum or even a map handed out at the entrance.  So take a guide book with you or you will need to hire a guide.

 
Oct 15 Aguas Calientes - Cusco.  We were up bright and early to get the train to Ollantaytambo.  The train left at 5:45am and we arrived at the station at 5:40 am.  We had terrible seats in the train.  No window.  We stopped frequently and seemed like forever until we could get off.  I could not imagine having to ride the train all the way to Cusco.  In Ollantaytambo we looked around before we headed back to Cusco.  First we went to the ruins which were impressive but small compared to Machu Piccu.  The temple and living quarters were never finished completely, from the top you can see the rhyolite blocks left on the ramp up to the site, one stone was on a small incline ready to be put in place and if you looked down the valley you can see where the large blocks were left in transit from the quarry to the ruins.  Interesting.  We also went to the museum in town.  It had the history of the Inca town of Ollantaytambo, information about the last hacienda in the area, the geology of the area and some of the community based projects in the area.   It was about this time that Tim started to get sick.  I thought that it may be his motion sickness pills.  We decided to get back to Cusco quickly.  We almost took a taxi all the way but could not find one.  Instead we took a combi (with 25 people) from Ollantaytambo to Urubamba. We then took a bus back to Cusco via Chincero.  The other bus driver tried to tell me that it was the same distance from Urubamba to Cusco via Pisac.  Later I looked at a map and it was twice the distance.  I am glad we went the way we knew through Chincero, it was the shortest way.  We returned to Hostel Iquique and took a nap.  
Oct 16 Cusco.  Well Tim was pretty sick today, he stayed in bed all day.  I worked on the web site, we had a lot of pictures of Machu Piccu to post.  
Oct 17 Cusco.  We checked to see if our package had arrived from the US at the South American Explorers club.  It had not.  We decided to wait one more day to see if it arrived.  If not then I would take a bus back from where ever we are to pick it up.  Our visa is running out and we need to get to Bolivia.  We have been watching the news and Bolivia has had problems for the past month.  The roads have been blocked and no one was going in or coming out.  At the very least we would renew our visa at the border and if not take a bus to chile.

The protests were about eradication of the coca plants which the farmers were upset about and then the president proposed to sell their natural gas to a private company and put a pipe line through Chile (to a coast that once belonged to Bolivia, no owned by Chile, taken in a war 120 years ago, I guess the Bolivians are still upset) so the gas could be sold to Mexico and the US.  That made the other half of the population mad so they people united and blocked the roads to La Paz.  It looked like things were pretty bad for quite awhile.

 
Oct 18 Cusco.  We packed up and got ready to go.  We have been sitting around long enough, it is time to get back on the road.  Tim was feeling better.  Things in Bolivia were much better today so it gave us hope that we can now travel through that country.  I wonder what we will find there?  
Oct 19 Cusco - Urcos.  We went to Plaza de Armas one last time to take pictures.  We met Tony a cyclist from Canada in the Plaza.  He plans to stay in Cusco for two weeks and then ride down into Bolivia.  We probably will cross paths again in the future. 

The road out of Cusco was down hill and void of traffic because it was Sunday.  At first we had a strong head wind and then later in the day we had a tail wind.  It was difficult to say whether this was the normal weather pattern or not. I forgot to put sun tan lotion on my arms today, by the time I realized it my arms were pretty burned.  It looks like I will need to wear a long sleeve for the next couple of days.  I expected it to be cool at this altitude but the sun is very strong so we burn easily.

When we arrived in Urcos the Sunday market was in full swing.  We saw lots of women in native dress.  As we pushed our bikes through the market to a hotel Tim decided to take a picture of me in the market.  The women around him tried to catch his attention and started pointing out their daughters to him, they were very young.  Tim explained that he already had a wife.  We could not figure out if they were serious or just trying to embarrass their daughters.

ascended 315 descended 535

45 km

28 mi

Oct 20 Urcos - Tinta.   We had a great tail wind all day.  The people are friendlier here than in Central Peru.  I think that they are use to tourists here.  However no one asked for money.  The valley was rolling and we steadily climbed up as the day went on.  We stopped to take a break after the toll booth and as we sat there we saw a forest fire start.  It started in the bushes and then spread to the Eucalyptus trees. The wind was so strong there was not way of stopping it.   By the looks of things the fires just go until they burn out.

We stopped at Hostel Progreso and got a room for 10 soles ($3) for the night.  Actually hostel Progreso is located 6 km before Tinta.  They said they had hot water but they did not.  Yet another hotel without hot water, at least it was cheaper.  I woke up in the middle of the night with a racing heart, I could not get back to sleep.  It was a bit scary.  I think it is the altitude.  Funny I did not have these problems when we rode over Cerro de Pasco which was over 500 meters (1,500 feet) higher.  Consequently, I slept in and we got a late start in the morning.

60 km

38 mi

Oct 21 Tinta - Sincuni.  It was virtually flat from Tinta to Sincuni.  We had just a slight head wind, oh we would have liked the tail wind we had yesterday.  The locals were friendly and we say lots of local cyclists.  We stopped for a store to take a break.  We noticed the women had big ceramic pots filled with something.  I asked what it was and they said, Chica.  Chica is a fermented drink made from corn.  The Incas usually had it with their festivals.  It was then that I noticed a few men staggering around.

We arrived in Sincuni around 11:30.  We located the internet cafe and decided that we liked the town.  I wanted to stay the night, I am having trouble with the altitude so I did not want to ride higher.  As we started to look for a place to stay we met Gus.  An American from Los Angeles.  He is living here, his grandfather grew up in this town.  He invited us to his hostel to stay the night and have a buffet lunch.  He serves buffets to tour buses that pass through from Puno to Cusco.  The food was great, vegetables, soup, and 6 main Peruvian dishes to choose from.  The best food we have had in Peru.

30 km 18 mi
Oct 22 Sincuni - Santa Rosa.  We said good bye to Gus and headed towards the pass called La Raya.  We were followed out of town by his dog but he eventually turned around.  If we had more time I think we would have stayed longer.  The ride up the valley was gradual at first and very scenic, we also had a tail wind so it made the climb even easier.  The valley was green and the people were very friendly.  28 km from Sincuni we passed Aguas Calientes, a hot spring.  It looked like a good place to camp and soak for the night.  However, we needed to push on.

We finally reached the pass and started to descend very quickly.  The valley was broad and being the dry season very brown compared to the valley we just climbed out of.  As we were flying down the hill we had to stop for a herd of alpaca crossing the road.  I was lucky enough to be able to ride behind the Gauchos (cowboys) and we talked while the herded the Alpaca down the street.  They were all white, fluffy, and full of energy.  When ever one veered from the pack a Gaucho would literally jump on its back and wrestle it back into the pack.  So that is how you do it.

The weather changed quickly and suddenly we had a very strong tailwind, for about 20 km and then it changed direction and suddenly we had a head wind.  It was getting cold and we arrived in Santa Rosa at a good time.  We found the only Hospedaje in town and got a room for 10 soles ($2.90).  The room was large enough for our bicycles and had a private bath.  We did not have hot water and in the middle of the night the water was off.  Again, I had trouble sleeping.

ascended 855 descended 420

70 km 42 mi
Oct 23 Santa Rosa - Pucara.  The morning was still and clear.  We traveled quickly on the flat road.  We were in Arivica 40 kilometers (25 miles) in an hour and a half. We were not in a rush so we stopped for lunch.  The town seemed empty until we arrived at the Plaza de Armas.  A parade was going on and the entire town was out watching the bands march by.

In hind sight we stayed in Arivica a little too long. When we finished lunch we stepped outside to a dark overcast sky.  The clouds popped up in a matter of an hour.  We rode for about an hour and then the head wind hit us hard.  I think we will not be riding in the afternoon anymore, two days in a row of head winds have taught us a lesson.  Tim makes a great wind break.  At one point we got off our bikes and walked just to take a break.  This was a good thing to do because the wind shifted while we were walking.  One thing I have noticed over the past two days is that everyone has a bicycle.  They are everywhere and people ride long distances between towns.  The great thing is it is not only boys and men on bikes but women and young girls too.  I just loved seeing a women in traditional dress riding a bike with here child sitting on the back rack.  It would have been rude to take a picture but I will remember that sight for a long time.

We arrived in Pucara, just as the rain started coming down, just a sprinkle.  We were first sent to the plaza for a Hospedaje (hotel) and then we eventually found our way back to the highway.  The Hospedaje is a huge modern looking building, it did not have a sign either.  It is on the corner of the highway and the road to the train station.  We paid 20 soles ($5.80) for the night and they said they had a hot shower.  What they failed to tell me was that the water in the whole town was turned off.  Seems to be a reoccurring theme.  It is the end of the dry season and it appears that there are more people living here then there is water.

ascended 145 descended 295

80 km 50 mi
Oct 24 Pucara - Juliaca.  We had such a beautiful view from our hotel room it was hard to leave.  Finally the water came on and we both had a nice hot shower.  Even with the extra time for showers were got out the door pretty early.  About 10 km (6 miles) from Pucara we met our first cycling couple along this stretch.  They were from Germany and spoke some English, we are so lucky that people learn the language we speak.  They were just in Bolivia 5 days ago.  They said because of the recent protests there was no bread or water in La Paz or Copacabana.  Hopefully by the time we get there things will be back to normal.

The wind was favorable, there wasn't any wind for the first hour and a half.  Then it kicked up a little and we had a slight headwind.  The beauty of riding behind Tim is that he just ploughs right through, especially on the flats, at times I have a hard time keeping up with him.  Obviously this type of riding suits Tim.  The road has gotten progressively worse since Pucara, no shoulder and patchwork pavement that makes it hard to get into a rhythm.

We stopped for lunch and I had sardines and bread and Tim chose to pass on the sardines, fish is not his favorite meal.  It was a good choice for Tim too.  I did not feel to well after lunch, about a hour down the road I had to pull over because I was nausea and could not ride.  This area is flat as a pancake and there was not a tree in sight.  So as I am getting sick on the side of the road I hear cars beeping at me, great I had an audience.  I felt better after getting sick but definitely weak.  Juliaca was only 10 km (6 miles) away so I decided that I needed to stop for the day.  Too bad too, we are only 45 km (15 miles) from Puno.  We found a Hospedaje (hotel) Senor de Huanco, 15 soles for the night, not quite as good as last night but at least it had great hot water.

ascended 170 descended 200

62 km 37 mi
Oct 25 Juliaca - Puno.  The morning was beautiful when we set out from Juliaca.  Juliaca is quite a hustle and bustle city.  The common mode of transportation is a tricycle taxi.  As we left we road in a pack of tricycle taxis, it was a bit of an eerie feeling, everyone pedaling fast, you never knew where these guys would turn either.  The first 20 km (12 miles) was fast a furious, I could barely keep up with Tim.  Then as usual the wind changed and it was back in our face.  It did not really matter we had to climb over a small set of mountains to get to Puno.  As we were climbing a pair of dogs attacked us, the first time in a long time, Tim ran one over and they both went running home.  As we reached the top it began to rain. I fear that we will be dancing with the rain for the next month.  It is getting close to rainy season here.  We plunged down to Puno in no time and found the plaza.

I started scouting for a hotel and realized that they all quoted their prices in US dollars.  This is never a good deal.  We decided to wait a while before we chose a hotel so we sat in the Plaza.  As we were hanging out a parade of local bands with traditional costumes and pan flutes came by. We did not realize it as the buses passed us on the highway, but we say most of these groups coming in on the highway, I recognized the drums.  It was very interesting and I was in heaven for the rest of the day.  I love parades and could watch one every day, it is the kid in me coming out.

ascended 270 descended 265

45 km 15 mi
Oct 26 Puno.  Sunday in Latin America is low key.  Nothing is open, nothing to do.  We walked down to the peer and checked out the boats.  Then we went to a movie, American Pie III, I know adolescent.  It did have some funny parts.  The kids in the theater were as obnoxious as the movie.

In the evening I was having problems with my bladder again.  it was painful and kept me up all night.

 
Oct 27 Puno.  I decided that I needed to see a doctor about my bladder infection.  First I went to the pharmacy and they sent me to a private clinic.  The hotel owner suggested that we not go there because as soon as they saw we were foreign tourists they would up the price, very high.  So to the general hospital we went.  Our spanish must be getting better because we went through admissions with out to much hassle.  Then we had pay for the administration fee before we could see a doctor.  Luckily, we had a women escort us to where we needed to pay.  It was a long line and we waited along with everyone else.  Women with sick kids, old men limping along.  Hospitals are a scary place and this one seem to fit right in.  After we paid our 5 soles ($1.45) for admissions our escort came out of no where and showed us to another room.  There they took my blood pressure, 95/80.  Seemed a bit low but maybe it is due to the altitude.  My temp was 35 degrees C., I guess that is OK. and I weighted 60 kilos, 132 pounds.  Then our escort took us through a maze of floors and halls.   We saw a women laid out on a gurney obviously in pain and being rushed down the hall.  They had put her cute little hat at the end of the bed, what an odd thing to carry with you through an emergency.  Finally we were sent in to see the doctor.  I explained my symptoms to him in spanish, frequent urination, painful urination, symptoms have occurred for the last three weeks.  He sent me down to the laboratory to get my urine tested.  This is when things got really interesting.  First, I had to pay for the laboratory tests, back to the long line we went, the lab analysis cost 8.5 soles ($2.50).  The laboratory did not have any sterile cups and suggested that we go out to the street and buy one in a store.  Like they have that kind of store here.  I was at a loss.  The doctor wanted a urine specimen but the entire hospital did not have a sterile cup.  Wow, beyond belief for me.  As Tim and I headed out the door to the street our escort showed up out of nowhere with a glass coke bottle.  She handed it to me as said use this.  OK now they want me to pee in a coke bottle.  It looked clean but it did not have a cap.  Well what else could I do but pee in a coke bottle.  Harder than it sounds.  OK now I had my specimen for the lab, now all I had to do was get it there.  How embarrassing, walking around with a coke bottle with urine in it.  I tried to hide it the best I could.  The halls were crowded and at one point a women slammed into my elbow, I almost lost my specimen all over the floor.  Yikes, I did not want to fill it again.  I dropped off my coke bottle at the lab, they did not seem to mind the container.  They said come back in an hour.  An hour and a half later my results were ready.  The lab technician was kind enough to take us back to the doctor's office, we could not have found it on our own.  The results showed that I had a bacteria.  The doctor prescribed an antibiotic.  First we had to go back to the long line and pay for my prescription, 2.9 soles ($0.84 cents) for a 6 day dose of ciprofloxacin (the same antibiotic I had for my stomach problems in Puerto Chicama, Peru only I paid 20 soles ($5.80) there).  All and all everyone was extremely helpful, concerned, and I felt well taken care of.  The language barrier was evident at times but we worked around it.

We called the South American Explorers Club and found out that our package has not arrived in Cusco yet.  Ugh!! I guess it is now on to Copacabana and one very long bus ride for me back to Cusco. Such is the ways of Latin America.   Our visa runs out on Sat. and it costs $27 per person to renew for a month.  Just not worth it.  Besides we need to get ahead of the weather.  So we will leave on Thursday.

 
Oct 28 Puno.  Found a nice little store on Arequipa that had a lot of the things we needed.  When I walked in I asked for a basket and they gave me a cart and they man jokingly said, fill it up.  I did, but you know toilet paper takes up a lot of room.  Two large grocery bags full of food cost me 70 soles or about 20 us dollars.  To think how quickly I would spend 20 dollars back in the States and not bat an eye.  Now it seems like a heck of a lot of money.  The locals seemed to think that as well.  Some how I have managed to convince Tim that it was time to buy a few souvenirs like an alpaca sweater.  So we went sweater shopping and found a decent price, two alpaca sweaters for 43 soles ($12.50 or 6.25 each) what a bargain.  Earlier I had gone to the expensive stores to see what they had and what was a good weave and texture.  Latin Americans are aces at copying a good thing.  So you really have to check that it is not a fake.  Well I gave the vender a 100 sole note and he could only give 50 soles in return, he did not have the 7 soles he owed me.  I am sure this a common ply oh my now I get to pick out a pair of gloves (never have to many gloves at this altitude) and a matching hat.  Ok I could not argue, Tim was agreeable and that is all that counts.  Thanks Tim.  
Oct 29 Puno.  We visited Uros the floating islands today.  We arrived at the dock at 7:30 am hoping to get on our way.  An hour later we were still waiting for other passengers to fill up our boat.  Suddenly, we were being moved from our large boat to a smaller boat.  A group of tourists wanted to go out to Uros and Taqxxx.  We wanted to only go out to Uros the floating islands and then return to Puno.  It became obvious that most tourists made a whole day of it and see more than the floating islands. 

Anyway, two families from Lima joined us and we had a grand time visiting the floating islands.  We practiced our Spanish and the kids practiced their English.  Every thing was low key.  The locals had built a tower to go up in and view the surrounding islands.  All the boats, houses, and islands are made of reeds.  They are cut, dried and either bundled for walls or boats or just thrown on the floor.  The first island we went to was large and had a floating school house on it.  We just had to visit.  Nice set up and pleasant kids, the teacher was having a bit of a time controlling them but hey that is just how kids are.  We left a donation for the school in the box near the door.  We took a ride on a reed boat to another island, they charged us 2 soles each, I can not imagine what they charge for a group of foreign tourists.  The boat was more stable than it look.  The second island we visited was smaller and I could feel the waves move beneath my feet.  Our boat captain pointed out to us that the children know how to swim by the age of two.  Wow pretty young.  I thought that this trip may have been a bit too touristy but I really enjoyed it and the native people were very pleasant, it is obvious that they depend on tourism to maintain their life style.  I just hope that they have islands that are completely private so they can get away from the tourists.

We met Meke and Tobias our next door neighbors and went out to dinner with them.  We also had dinner with another German couple and a couple from France.  It was an entertaining evening.

 
Oct 30 Puno - Juli.  We woke to stormy weather.  However, I was itchy to get riding again.  Sometimes this itch will get us in trouble but not today.  When we left Puno it was sprinkling and we feared that we would have to stop sooner than we wanted to.  Lucky for us the weather held out the entire day.  As we left Puno the people were friendly and were busy plowing their fields with burros, cows and oxen.  What a terribly difficult job. 

We noticed a change again (similar to the people in Chavanillo, three weeks before) in the locals at about Llave when a little boy on the side of the road threw gravel at us.  We stopped jumped off, our bikes and chased the trouble maker back to his house. Tim was furious.  Lucky for him his parents were not home, only his older brother who found the entire scene entertaining.  His little brother was not too happy and just a bit scared.  We left and continued on our ride.  Over the next hill three little girls dressed in new clothes and carrying school supplies in new Barbie backpacks asked us for a gift.  Then the next man said Gringo, Plata.  Translated to English, white man, give me money.  Then we saw the signs, a hey we are saving the world organization.  As far as I can see they are just corrupting these people.  I wonder what they really doing to make people act this way.  Hey you are a foreigner give me a gift or give me money.  I am not against aid, what I am against is how it is done.  Something is not right when you take away peoples dignity, and at the same time inducing a lack of respect for others or foreigners.  Quite frankly I am getting tired of receiving the blunt end of some one else's feel good project.  This entire scenario has happen too many times.  I have a request to those in foreign aid and tourists, stop handing out pens, gifts, money, clothes to the people on the street.  Give these things to the local church, school, or hospital.  I know a hospital in Puno who could use some sterile cups and latex gloves as a gift.   Let their own community members hand out these things so they do not associate these gifts with race and tourism.  Yes, there are inequalities in this world but handing out things to people so you can go home to your first world country feeling good about yourself is doing more harm than good.  OK enough of my soap box.  I can only imagine what Bolivia is going to be like. 

The result of all this begging is a misinterpretation of people on my part.  It upsets me immensely when I think that someone is asking me for money when actually they are just saying hello.  It is not fair to think of someone like that.

Stayed in Hostel Municipal across from the market.  The owner quoted me a price of 10 soles for two people, private bathroom, no shower.  When I registered and told him that I was from the US he changed the price to 14 soles total.  I hate it when someone changes a price on me, we already negotiated on a price.  Once again judged by my where I am from, disappointing.

 

ascended 280 meters descended 230 meters

80 km 50 mi
Oct 31 Juli, Peru - Copacabana, Bolivia. We were up early and ready to go.  We had to bring all our gear down three flights of stairs so we always kept our door locked between trips.  A normal precaution on our part.  We had two bags to go and Tim called the owner up because he was having trouble with the lock.  The owner gave the key a twist and broke the lock, the door could not be opened and two of our bags were stuck in the room.  We pressed the owner to get the door open.  He wandered around not knowing what to do.  He sent a kid up to look at the door and he tried to open it with a pair of scissors.  Meanwhile they would not let Tim near the door.  We told him we really needed to go, our visa had run out and we needed to get to the border.  We wanted to break a window or something, he said only if we paid for it.  We asked him if he wanted to pay for the extra day on our visa.  The argument escalated to the point where I did not know how we were going to solve our problem.

Tim came up with the solution.  Instead of breaking the window he scrapped away the putty around the glass and used a piece of wire supplied by the dumb founded owner to open the window.  A skill acquired will breaking into cars with the keys locked in it.  Wa la, Tim opened the window right before the owners eyes.  The owner was speechless, he did not even thank Tim, we grabbed our bags and flew out of there as quickly as we could.

Anticipation of crossing the border into Bolivia, finally, had us both excited.  We made good time to the border, Tim plowing ahead through a steady headwind, and I staying in his draft the best I could.  We were asked for money along the way, at least five more times, I just ignored them the best I could and decided the best thing to do was not talk to anyone unless I had too.  Sad but true.  I asked directions at one point and one of the kids asked me for money for the answer, give me a break.

We arrived at the border between Peru and Bolivia.  The border was quiet.  We easily exchanged our soles to Boliviano at a rate of 2.2 to 1 and our dollars at a rate of 7.7 to 1.  We crossed the quiet border to the Bolivian side, received our entrance stamp, and rode the 8 kilometers to Copacabana.  Our guide book and cycling information we had stated that the road from the border to Copacabana was a very bad dirt road.  Much to our surprise and delight, it was paved the entire way.  Sure made for a quick trip into town.  We arrived at around 4:00 pm and Tim sat in the plaza while I scanned the city for a hotel.  I went to 7 and the best I found was Hotel Colonial, it looked to expensive for us, it had a large room, large bed, even Tim fit on it, and a hot shower.  All for 40 bolivianos, ($5.20).  It appears that the recent road blocks in the area have affected the tourism and people were desperate to get any tourists in their hotel.

Ascended 475 meters descended 475 meters.

60 km

37 mi

  =====
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INDEX #2: South America
6-3-03 to 6-17-04

1North and
Central America
3-30-02 to 4-17-03

2 South America
6-3-03 to 6-17-04

3 SE Asia / China
11-22-04 to
9-15-06

4 Australia
9-15-06 to 9-15-07

5 New Zealand
9-16-07 to 5-2-08
6 Alaska, Canada, and the USA
5-3-08 to 4-30-10
7 India. Nepal, and the Subcontinent
5-1-10 to present
Where am I  now

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Peru #1 THUMBS

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- The Ecuador Border to Chiclayo, Peru
- Chiclayo to Trujillo, Peru
- Casa De Ciclista, Peru Cyclist House
- The Ruins of Chan Chan
- Ruins - Temple of the Moon and Sun
- Trujillo to Huallanca, Peru
- Huallanca to Huaraz, Peru
- Huarez to Pachapaque
- Pachapaqui to Huallanca

 

Sept. 15 - Oct. 31, 2003
Peru #2
Huallanca, Peru to
Copacabana, Bolivia

Cindie's Daily Journals
Peru #2 JOURNAL

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Peru #2: Been Doing Some Hard Traveling

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Peru #2 THUMBS

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- Huallanca to Huanuco
- Huanuco to La Oroya, Peru
- Arequipa, Peru
- Cusco, Peru
- Tambo Machay, Pucapucara, Qenqo
- Sacsayhuaman, Inca Ruin
- Machu Picchu #1
- Machu Picchu #2
- Machu Picchu #3
- Cusco to Santa Rosa, Peru
- Santa Rosa, Peru to Copacabana Bolivia
- Uros, Peru Lake Titicaca

 

November 1 - December 8, 2003
Bolivia
Copacabana to Villazon, Bolivia

Cindie's Daily Journals
Bolivia JOURNAL

Tim's Emailed Newsletters (Join  List)
Bolivia: The Calm After the Storm.

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Bolivia THUMBS

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- Copacabana, Bolivia on Lake Titicaca
- Todos Santos - Day of the Dead
- Copacabana to La Paz
- La Paz to Oruro
- Oruro to Quillacas
- Quillacas to Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia
- Salar de Uyuni Salt Lake to The City of Uyuni

 
(December 9, 2003 - January 22, 2004)
NW Argentina
La Quiaca, to La Cueva, (border with Chile) Argentina

Cindie's Daily Journals
Cindie's North West Argentina Daily Journal

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Northwest Argentina: The Wrong Way In the Right Country 

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Pictures of  North West Argentina

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- Quiaca to Tilcara
- Tilcara to Salta
- Salta to Cafayate
- Cafayate to Belen
- Belen to Mendoza
- Parque National Talampaya
- Valle De Luna Provincial Park
- Mendoza to La Cueva
- Aconcagua National Park

 
January 23 - February 29, 2004
Chile
Portillo, Chile to Bariloche, Argentina

Cindie's Daily Journals
Cindie's Chile Daily Journal

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coming!

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Thumbnails of Chile

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- Portillo to Los Andes
- Temuco to Parqua National Conguillio
- Conguillio National Park to Villarrica
- Villarrica to Playa Pucara
- Playa Pucura to Puerto Pirihueico
- Bariloche, Argentina Velodrome

 
March 3, to 23, 2004
  Patagonia, South America
 Argentina and Chile

Cindie's Daily Journals
Patagonia

Tim's Emailed Newsletters (Join  List)
coming!

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Patagonia THUMBS

Full size Picture Pages

- Southern Patagonia Birds
- Perito Moreno Glacier, (Before rupture)
- Perito Moreno Glacier (After rupture)
- Torres Del Paine National Park #1
- Torres Del Paine National Park #2
- Torres Del Paine National Park #3
- Torres Del Paine National Park #4
- El Chalten  - Fritz Roy
- Cuevas los Manos, Rock Art


- My First Jewish Passover
- Ski Argentina Cerro Cathedral
- Fall in Bariloche
- Cerro Campanerio
- Cerro Lopez
- Nordic Cross Country Skiing Bariloche, Argentina

1North and
Central America
3-30-02 to 4-17-03

2 South America
6-3-03 to 6-17-04

3 SE Asia / China
11-22-04 to
9-15-06

4 Australia
9-15-06 to 9-15-07

5 New Zealand
9-16-07 to 5-2-08
6 Alaska, Canada, and the USA
5-3-08 to 4-30-10
7 India. Nepal, and the Subcontinent
5-1-10 to present
Where am I  now

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