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Cindie's Chile Daily Journal
Travel Writing, Blog, Travelogue
Portillo, Chile to Bariloche, Argentina
(January 23 - February 29, 2004)

WB01618_.gif (290 bytes)  Previous Journal Thumbnail Photo Page for this Journal

Tim's Letter for this Journal

Next Journal  WB01620_.gif (288 bytes)
Jan 23 Portillo.  We stayed in a Hostel a rocks throw away from the customs check.  We walked back to the Casa de Cambio and changed money.  Our exchange rate was 560 Chilean pesos for 1 dollar.  Ouch, one year ago it was 1500 pesos to 1 dollar.  Our cost just tripled.  We walked down to Laguna del Inca and Hotel Portillo.  Wow what a ski area.

We were tired from riding up the Argentinean side so it was nice to take a rest day.  It was cool at night, great sleeping weather.  The hostel cost 10,000 pesos per night ($17.80)

 
Jan 24 Portillo.  Rest day.  We felt like we were staying in someone's house instead of a hostel.  We got to know the kids, mom and dad.  We even watched TV for a while.   
Jan 25 Portillo - Los Andes.     On the way down the hill we met a Swiss guy who is running around the world.   His wife drives a motorcycle alongside him.  He is running around the world for charity, he collects money for each kilometer he runs, the money is donated to a clinic who does eye surgery in foreign countries. www.runforkids.org

Eric with the Casa de Ciclista was on vacation.  We rode around looking everywhere for a place to stay.  A number hostels were full, we finally stayed in Hotel Plaza, a three star hotel, what happen to all the cheap places to stay.  It cost US38 dollar for the night.  We are blowing through the money, so no restaurants for us. 

 
Jan 26 Los Andes - Santiago.  Hopped a bus to Santiago.  We paid 1400 pesos per person ($2.40) for our bus ticket and the porter wanted to charge us 5000 pesos ($8.62) for both our bikes.  We refused and asked for a receipt.  We never go a receipt so we never paid.  We waited in Santiago for most of the day, we bought a ticket on the night bus to Temuco.  The cost was 5000 pesos ($8.62), we could have paid up to 24,000 peso ($41.38) each for a nicer bus company Tur-bus.  We stayed with the cheap one.  While we were waiting for our bus, we met Scott in the bus terminal, he gave us tons of information about riding the lake district located just east of Temuco.  He has a hostel in Santiago, we would have stayed with him if we were staying in Santiago.  
Jan 27 Santiago - Temuco. We caught the bus at about 11:30 pm, it was pure chaos getting on the bus, no orderly line just pushing and shoving.  They told us each bike would cost 2000 pesos ($3.45), and we would get a receipt.  Amazing enough I slept most of the bus ride.  We arrived early in the morning, the streets were deserted, and it was cool almost cold.  Oh I like it.  Tim waited in the plaza while I checked out a number of hostels.  The cheapest hostel I could find is 9000 pesos ($15.00), without private bath, includes breakfast.  Hostel Millaray.

Found the post office, bike shop, cash machine, and grocery store.  Everything is compact and in the down town area.  We also watched a movie, The Last Samurai, it was entertaining, however, every movie seems to be about war these days.

 
Jan. 28 Temuco.  We wanted to do laundry today but the electricity went out in town for most of the day, we could not internet or see a movie either.  The storm was not that strong so I can only assume that they had an accident somewhere.  Times like this is when I realize how much we depend on electricity.  When we are in our tent we do not need electricity, but as Tim points out we are prepared for that, we have batteries.  The lights came back on just about sunset, 9:30 pm.  
Jan 29 Temuco.  One more day here, we need to finish our chores, post office, laundry ect.  We leave tomorrow.  I am excited, we now have a very interesting route planned, with views of waterfalls, volcanoes, lakes and ancient trees.  I will try to keep all the details so others can follow.   
Jan 30 Temuco - Curacautin  Camped at Trahuilco they charge 4000 pesos ($6.83).  Tailwind.  We met Suzanne from Munich Germany.  She is traveling alone, she is the first solo women bike tourist I have met on the road.  We looked at our itineraries and they are about the same for the next two weeks or so.  We decided to ride together.

Some people in the park gave us home made cheese, fresh cheese and home made bread mmmm good stuff.

Ascend 600 meters (2000 feet) descend ? we did not have the log book on.

92 km
Jan 31 Curacautin - Conguillio National Park.  We are loaded down with a weeks worth of food, we could have brought less and I recommend that if you are riding in this direction.  The road to the park is well graded.  Inside the park the road was very loose cinders and very steep.  This is the first road that Tim has had to push his bike up the hill, usually he rides it and then comes back for me.  However, this road was impossible to ride, we all had to push.  Quite a struggle with loaded down bikes.  We paid 2,800 pesos ($4.70) entrance fee, they charge 15,000 pesos per site ($25.64), camping.  That is more than a hotel room, the price is for up to 5 people.  We had a bit of a tailwind but on the steep road it did not matter.

We were all pretty tired when we arrived at the campground.  We choose a site with a great view of lake Conguillio and mountain.

Ascend 905 meters (2970 feet), descend 305 meters (1000 feet)

37 km dirt
Feb 1 Conguillio National Park.  Tim took a rest day today and as usual was writing.  I did a short hike within the park, the trees were awesome.  The Araucarias (monkey puzzle in English, strange name) are a beautiful tree.  When they are young the are full of branches but as they grow taller and older they loose their lower branches and only the top limbs remain.  I call them Jurassic Park trees.  There is moss in the trees here but this time of year is dry.  The black cinders make for a hot place to walk so I cut my hike a little short. Suzanne went on a very long 20 km hike in the park.

We met Ruben and Sebastian as they were packing for their bike tour.  They both spoke fluent English and Ruben spoke fluent German as well.  It was exciting to meet some other cyclists.  They had planned a 10 day trip that included mountain passes and lakes.  They had plenty of gear with them even a fishing pole.

I went to sleep early and Tim stayed up working on the web page.  The only place to plug in was near the bathroom so when I left him he was sitting all along by the bathroom.  I woke up an hour later and still Tim was working.  So I went to see what he was working on and I found a group of 20 people around him.  He was giving them a slide show of Latin America.  Cute.  I should have taken a picture.  Tim said the kids were the first to come over and then the parents came by looking for their kids.

 
Feb 2 Conguillio National Park - Cunco.  We woke early and prepared to go, the weather was cloudy and I wondered if we would get rained on.  It was very cool in the shade, I almost put on my tights.  We were now riding on the well worn path out of the park.  Great riding.  We dropped quickly until we came to the lava flow, a huge lava flow, no trees, just rock and cinders and beautiful views of the volcano.

We stopped for lunch at Melipeuco.  We had a stiff head wind from Melipeuco to Cunco.  Tim rode out front and pulled us all the way into Cunco.

We stayed in a hospedaje near the center of town, it was 5,000 pesos ($8.54) per person and it included breakfast.  It was the cheapest place we could find.

forgot to put our log on.

45 km dirt 21km
Feb 3 Cunco. We set out for Lake Colico this morning.  The road out of town is being prepared and it was miserable riding.  We were riding through a construction zone when Tim yelled that something was wrong with his bike.  He could not pedal anymore.  We pushed our bikes through the construction zone and stopped to take a look at the problem.  Yep, something was very wrong.  Tim could pedal his bike forward and the cassette just spun in place. Hmm.  Suzanne decided to pedal on and we would catch up to her when we fixed the problem.  We got her email.  I sadly waved good-bye, thinking I would see here again soon.

We walked the 3 km back to town.  Luckily this town has three bike shops.  We went to all three bike shops and the biggest rear cluster they had was a 6 speed.  OK now what.  We sat in the plaza and decided what to do.  We brought our bikes back to the hospedaje.  The kind women said that she would keep our bikes in a storage room while we went to Temuco.  We took the rear wheel off of Tim's bike and jumped on the bus to Temuco.  It was a 45 minute ride into town.

The bike shop was closed when we arrived, they reopened at 3:00 pm.  The mechanic pulled the cassette off, and that is when we realized that the problem was the hub.  So off to the internet cafe we went and called Phil.  We talked with Brent the techie.  He said he would send us a hub right away.  Yeah!  It should be here by the end of the week.  He also sent us maintenance instructions for the hub.  So now it was back to Cunco.  Since we got off the bus close to the plaza I had no idea where the bus terminal was.  We ended up taking a bus, and walking for four block before we found our bus station.  We jumped on the last bus to Cunco.  It was packed.

We went back to the hostel and negotiated for a small room, she gave it to us for 6000 pesos ($10.20) for the both of us.

 
Feb 4 Cunco.  Spent the day repairing gear and doing laundry. Tim is writing the next letter.  
Feb 5 Cunco.  Happy Birthday Ed, Patty, and Alicia.  We spent the day working on the logistics of getting the book together.  It is a hot day for here anyway.  I heard that the temperature was 32 degrees.  The hospedaje has a little kitten that has come to visit us.  She is full of energy and friendly.  
Feb 6 Cunco.  Off to Temuco hopefully to a new hub.  We arrived at the bike shop and learned that the hub had not arrived yet.  The owner of the shop told us that it would take 6 days for the hub to clear customs, we had forgot about that.  So now it is any body's guess as to when we will get on the road again.

I am bummed, the weather is nice, the area is nice and the bike is broken, what a bad combination.  We will just have to make the best of it.  At least Cunco is cheaper that Temuco.  Of all the Latin American countries we have been in Chile appears to be the most orderly, so hopefully we will get our hub in and on the road soon.  We will have to wait until Monday now.  I am now feeding the kitten, she always seems to be hungry.  She especially liked the left over salmon I had.  I bought a can of salmon for less the $1, I had to try it.  It was not too bad but I can not wait to try the fresh version.

 
Feb 7 Cunco.  Happy Birthday Scott McKay.  We woke up to rain this morning and the temperature dropped to about 24 C.  Nice riding weather.  I am getting itchy to ride but will have to be content working on the book.  There is a lot more to the book industry then I ever imagined.  Wholesalers, distributors, fulfillment companies and they all want a piece of the pie.  Luckily the internet provides us all the information we need, and then some.  I have been looking for the kitten all day, she is no where to be found, I am sad, I miss the little thing.  
Feb 8 Cunco.  We had rain again this morning.  Worked on repairing various equipment.  The tent bag is starting to show signs of age, the shower bag had a hole in it, the outside pocket of my pannier has come apart from the seam, Tim's shoes are wearing away at the heel and on the ball of his foot, the tent zippers are starting to go as well.  We use to have two doors and now we only use one.  A lot of our equipment is getting worn down.  My bike shoes, Sidi Bullets, have held up well over the last two years, however, the cleat is now touching the ground because the sole has worn down.  This makes it very slippery on concrete floors.  
Feb 9 Cunco.  We called Brent with Phil Wood today, he checked on where our hub was and he said that they did not know what to do with it because it was a warranty and it should be here tomorrow.  I am certainly ready to ride.  
Feb 10 Cunco.   I called the shop at 12:30 pm and the hub had arrived.  We caught a bus to Temuco and arrived in town at 2:30.  The shop opened again at 3:00 pm and we confirmed that the hub had arrived.  They said they would work on it.  We returned at 4:30 and nothing had changed, typical in Latin America.  They said it would be ready at 6:00 but it was finally done at 6:30.  We tried to take a bus back to Cunco but it did not have room for the bicycle.  So we went to the terminal and they charged us 1500 pesos to transport the bike to Cunco, the charged us 700 each so it cost more to have the bike transported then the both of us. Highway robbery, I noticed that they did not charge everyone for each little baggage.  The icing on the cake was when the backpackers yanked their backpacks out and ripped Tim's leather saddle.  They did not want to wait for Tim to move the seat in the other direction nor did they care that they ripped the seat.    
Feb 11 Cunco  - Camp Rio.  We are finally off and down the road again.  We were originally going to go south towards Lake Colico but changed our plans since we have been off the bikes for the last week.  We changed our route to head to Villarica as quickly as we could.  We took a break in Los Laureles, not a very friendly town, and decided to ride due west and then south on the main highway 69 to Villarica.  We stopped at the first camping area we could find.  We rode in 1.5 km to the river.  It was a beautiful site on the river.  There was a family there from Santiago. Victor came over and introduced himself to us.  Then his mom offered to feed us, they gave us a great chicken soup.

We went fishing with Victor's little brother.  Surprisingly, the river water was not that cold, but it had plenty of fish, salmon and trout.  We saw boats go by with people fishing.  Victor told us that they start near Villarica and pull out about 14 km down stream from here.  The cost is about 25,000 pesos per person.  About $50.  It looked like a great thing to do.

We accidentally drank the water out of the tap, we thought it was potable.  Later we found the intake in the river.  Opps, I hope this was not a costly mistake.  Most taps in Chile and Argentina have potable water.  I wish the women who took our money told us the water was not drinkable.

Victor is also a boy scout, so Tim and Victor had a lot to talk about.  Chile was the second country to have the boy scouts.  Also, they combine the boy scouts and girl scouts together, one of the few countries in the world that do.  He gave us two boy scout patches from Chile, very nice.

ascend 140 meters descend 370 meters

25 km dirt 55 km road

 

Feb 12 Camp Rio - Pucura.  We had a bit of a late start, but the ride into Villarica was quick.  Wow what a hectic mess of a town.  It was beautiful with the views of Volcano Villarica and the lake but way too busy for me.  It reminded me of the busy seaside resort towns in New Jersey.  We had lunch at an outdoor cafe.  We both ordered hot dogs and they arrived on a wooden holder.  Tim told the waiter that he had never seen one before.  We were still hungry from yesterday so we kept ordering food, making this poor guy run back and forth.  We left him a good tip, one of the few times we splurge on giving a tip.  He later returned with two hot dog holders.  It will make a nice souvenir from Chile.

We headed to the Lake near Lican Ray.  First we had to climb over a huge lava flow and then the road was rolling.  This area is young topography with volcanoes, volcanic flows, vents and then super imposed on it is glacial topography with lots of lakes and carved out valleys.  My two favorite types of topography all in one.  However, this type of terrain is very rugged and almost a constant up and down.  Tiring after taking a week off the bike.

We found a cheap campground near Pucura, 6000 pesos ($10.50) per night.  The bathrooms are clean, the shower is hot certain hours of the day and we have electricity.

ascend 610 meters descend 555 meters

68 km
Feb 13 Pucura.  Stopped and checked out the beach today.  Way too hot for me, the sand is black and muy caliente.  I prefer to hide from the sun.  It is either very hot in the sun or cold in the shade.  The happy middle is riding the bike where there is always a cool breeze.

The folks at the camp ground are not too friendly, mostly reserved.  I am use to people coming up to us and asking questions but the people here do not even say good morning.  ah well some privacy is ok too.

Tim was not feeling well this afternoon he had a touch of diarrhea.  He did not eat dinner at all.  We turned in early and he had a slight fever.  We stayed up talking and Tim complained of nausea before I knew it the forbidden door (the one with the broken zipper)  was open and Tim was vomiting outside the tent (Thank God).  The sound was stomach wrenching, brought tears to my eyes.  The smell well you know.  Poor guy was white as a ghost too.  He went off to the bathroom and I tried to fix the broken door, it was tough.  It was after midnight, damp wet and the smell of sickness in the air.  At least he made it out of the tent, it would have been a nightmare if he did not.  I guess drinking the river water was a huge mistake and Tim is paying dearly.

 
Feb 14 Pucura.  We can not seem to get going.  Tim was so weak it was just impossible to leave today.  I saddled up the trusty stead and headed into town to find Tim some antibiotics.  Luckily we were only 12 kilometers (7 miles) from town.  My first stop was the pharmacy, the pharmacist tried to sell me something like Imodium to stop the diarrhea, no I did not want that, then he tried to sell me something else.  He said it was for the infection.  I asked him if it was for the viral infection or the bacterial infection.  He said he did not know.  Hmm.  I then asked him if it was an antibiotic, the answer was no.  I said no thanks and left.  I found a 24 hour urgent care clinic and the doctor spoke fluent English.  I explained to him that Tim was very sick and could not ride into town for a visit.  He understood and gave me a couple of ciproflaxin, an antibiotic, free of charge, it was a sample pack. Oh did we get lucky.

I then looked for a bank in Lican Ray but there wasn't anything, amazing the town was packed with vacationers, and no way to get money.

It seems that we are starting to get road weary.  A break is in order soon.

All I want for Valentines day is for my favorite Valentine to be well again.  I asked Tim how he felt and he said, "like a bag of squished apples"  I guess the cipro has not kicked in.

 
Feb 15 Pucura - Cuesta Los Aniques..  Tim was still feeling weak today so we did not plan on riding for very long.  We left Pucura and rode the short 8 kilometers to Conaripe.  We met three hitchhikers along the way and Tim could not resist taking their picture.  The two girls and one boy were from Santiago and came down to the lake to play music.  As we were leaving town a garbage truck pulled out in front of us, Tim stopped immediately but I did not have time to get to my brakes so I ran into the back of him and before I knew it I was on the ground.  Bruised my leg and jammed my thumb  Ouch!  This guy did not want to wait for us to go by, &*$!. 

We had to climb over Cuesta Los Aniques.  It was Sunday and we had more traffic than I expected.  The road was steep in areas but ridable.  The drivers seemed to get way too close maybe it was my close call in Conaripe that gave me that impression.  We stopped at the pass and started looking for a place to camp.  Since the area was privately owned there was no place to camp.  We finally found a small little place to camp near a bridge.  The weather quickly turned from sunny and warm to cloudy and cold.  The rain began at 7:00 pm and it rained the entire night.  The tent had drips here and there and one of them was right over me, so I had to put the dry bag over me to keep from getting wet.  This tent is on its last legs, every time it rains I feel like I am bailing water out of a boat.

ascend 470 meters descend 210 meters

28 km dirt
Feb 16 Cuesta Los Aniques. - Thermals Marquecura.  It rained all morning, the tent was soggy, and I was getting antsy just staying in the tent so long.  We had a little sun and tried to dry things out, our tent is just not waterproof anymore.  I will have to work on repairing it again, it is a constant battle now. 

We finally had our gear packed up and Tim rolls his bike over to me and realizes that he has a flat tire.  Not a good time, the weather was clear at the moment but it could rain at any time.  Tim changed his flat and decided to put on the new tire we bought in Temuco.

Not 30 minutes after we started riding it started to rain, a little at first and then a deluge. We took cover in a bus stop turned shelter.  We waited out the rain and then rode on to Thermals Marquecura.  This took us 8 kilometers past our turn but the weather did not seem like it was going to change soon and we or more like I dreamed of sitting in a hot spring.  Tim always gives me my way when I get head strong about going somewhere, he is so easy going.  When ever I get my heart set on something he always goes in that direction.  The weather  and road were kind to us until the last 2 kilometers to the hot springs.  The last two kilometers were straight up on a muddy road.  Tim rode the entire thing, I could not.  The rain came down hard for those last 2 kilometers.  We were soaked by the time we arrived at the entrance.  We elected to get a cabin instead of camp in the rain.  The cabin cost 15,000 peso ($25) a bit pricy but this included the hot spring, tinta (wooden bath tub) and mud spring too.

ascend 305 meters descend 510 meters

29 km dirt
Feb 17 Thermals Marquecura.  We decided to stay an extra day at these thermal hot springs, our gear was just too wet to go on.  I went from the hot spring to the mud spring, to the shower, back to the hot spring and finally on to the shower.  I spent most of the day in hot water :).    
Feb 18 Thermals Marquecura - Puerto Pirihueico.  The day was sunny and clear, a great day to ride.  We rode back to our intersection and then on toward Puerto Fuy.  The terrain is a constant up and down and we found ourselves climbing again.  As long as the road was not heavily graveled I could ride it.  However, in some areas they had repaired the road with large gravel and rocks and I found theses areas impossible to ride.  The scenery was breathtaking, lakes, volcanoes, and wooden bridges. One of my favorite things about this area is that the roads are lined with wild blackberries and they are ripe.  Every time we stopped I was eating berries.  I would pick some for Tim too. 

We had to keep moving, we wanted to catch the ferry at Puerto Fuy.  The road was fine until we turned onto the road to Puerto Fuy.  The entire road was being repaired and the gravel was deep and frustrating to ride.  The cars were throwing stones everywhere, they did not care, they were in a hurry.

We arrived in Puerto Fuy just in time to catch the ferry. 2000 pesos for one person and bicycle. While we were on board the porter asked if we could translate something from English to Spanish.  I took a look at what needed to be translated.  It turns out that they had a manual on how to install and maintain a septic system.  All that time spent reviewing septic system plans for the State of Arizona paid off.  Well at least I could explain how the system worked.  My spanish is not good enough to translate such a technical document but I did help with the concept part and then someone translated into spanish.  They let me ride the boat for free.

We camped on the beach where we got off the ferry.  It was free, a gorgeous site, and we had a fire.  Great place.

ascend 740 meters descend 360 meters

56 km dirt
Feb 19 Puerto Pirihueico, Chile - National Park Lanin, Argentina.  We thought we would make it to San Martin today but we had to go through two border checks and two customs checks.  Then I say a sign for a cafe and I had to stop.  It was well worth it, we had a fine meal in a great setting.  The women who ran the cafe spoke fluent English and spanish.  The great lunch gave me lots of energy for the climb ahead.  We climbed and climbed.  Around 7:00 pm we decided to camp rather than push on to San Martin.

We camped off the road, near a spring.  The road was blocked with logs so we knew we would not be bothered at night.  The camp site was peaceful.  At night the stars were incredibly bright.  We were sound asleep when the horses came running through.  Scared me to death.  I thought they were going to run over the tent.  In actuality the site of our tent spooked them and they went running the other way.

ascend 730 meters descend 445 meters

34 km dirt
Feb 20 National Park Lanin - San Martin de los Andes.  We thought we were near the top but still we climbed.  When we reached the top the wind was very strong, yes in our face.  This made the road very dusty too.  Just before town Tim got yet another flat.

We stayed in the ACA campground located at the north end of town.  Cost 15 pesos ($5) for both of us.  Nice showers and close to town.

ascend 290 meters descend 480 meters

25 km dirt
Feb 21 San Martin de los Andes.  Took the day off to clean clothes, update website and grocery shop.  
Feb 22 San Martin - Lake Faulkner.  We met some people in the campground before we left so we had a very late start.  We also met a french cyclist arriving in San Martin, he has traveled by bicycle in many parts of the world, I think we will meet him again.  We stopped for lunch and delayed are departure even further.  We finally left town and started on our long climb away from the lake.  We passed two other lakes before we stopped to camp.  We met hitch hikers and other cyclists along this road.

ascend 740 meters descend 395 meters

45 km
Feb 23 Lake Faulkner - Villa la Angostura.  The pavement ended and the dirt began.  We passed a beautiful lake that was crystal clear and we could see the surrounding mountains reflected in it.  The road climbed and dropped steadily.  It really is a beautiful area to ride but the traffic is extremely heavy.  The cars and buses fly down the road spraying gravel everywhere.  I would have to say it is one of the dustiest roads I have been on.  The drivers have no time to slow down while we climbed up some of the steeper sections of the road.

I was pretty tired by the time we arrived in Villa la Angostura, so we stopped at the first campground we saw.  It had a supermarket near it so I cooked steak for dinner.  Again it was a late night, but that is the custom in Argentina.  The campground cost 17 pesos, they wanted to charge for every little thing, chairs, use of  electricity ect.  There is an ACA campground in town, I would recommend trying that one.

ascend 855 meters descend 1000 meters

13 km 50 km dirt
Feb 24 Villa la Angostura. - Bariloche.  We had a hard time finding a youth hostel that had a room available.  We ended up at El Gaucho, a new hostel.  We could only get a dorm bed for 13 pesos per person.

We had a great barbeque this evening with some locals and Australians.

ascend 795 meters descend 770 meters

85 km
Feb 25 Bariloche Rest day  
Feb 26 Bariloche Rest day  
Feb 27 Bariloche Rest day.  It took us three days to recover from riding.  It seems that we are really worn out.  It is getting late in the summer and we are trying to figure out how to get down to southern Patagonia.  Our bikes our worn out, our tent zipper do not work anymore, and our zest for getting out the door is waning. We are not going to have time to ride the Carreteras Austral and go trekking in Torres del Paine.  We are ready for a break off the bike.  
Feb 28 Bariloche Hiking at Lloa Lloa.  Sara from Kentucky and I went hiking out at Lloa Lloa.  The trails are beautiful and easy walking.  We walked for hours in the beautiful forest.  
Feb 29 Bariloche.  Another rest day.  

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Tim's Letter for this Journal

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INDEX #2: South America
6-3-03 to 6-17-04

1North and
Central America
3-30-02 to 4-17-03

2 South America
6-3-03 to 6-17-04

3 SE Asia / China
11-22-04 to
9-15-06

4 Australia
9-15-06 to 9-15-07

5 New Zealand
9-16-07 to 5-2-08
6 Alaska, Canada, and the USA
5-3-08 to 4-30-10
7 India. Nepal, and the Subcontinent
5-1-10 to present
Where am I  now

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June 4 -  July 8, 2003
Ecuador #1
Quito to Riobamba, Ecuador

Cindie's Daily Journals
Ecuador #1

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Ecuador: Riding on top of the Southern Hemisphere

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- Quito The Old City
- The Equator "Mitad del Mundo"
- Volcano Tugurahua, Backpacking
- Banos, Ecuador Natural Hot Springs
- Quito to Latacunga, Ecuador
- The City of Latacunga, Ecuador
- Latacunga to Riobamba, Ecuador
- The Village of Mocha, Ecuador
- The City of Riobamba, Ecuador
- Other

 

July 9 - Aug 4, 2003
Ecuador #2
Riobamba to Macara, Ecuador
( Peruvian border)

Cindie's Daily Journals
Ecuador #2

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Ecuador #2: The Magic of the Andes

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- Riobamba to Alausi, Ecuador
- The City of Alausi, Ecuador
- Nariz Del Diablo - Train Ride
- Alausi to Cuenca, Ecuador
- The City of Cuenca, Ecuador
- Cuenca to Loja, Ecuador
- Loja to Macara, Ecuador

 

Aug 5 - Sept. 14, 2003
Peru #1
The Ecuador border to Huallanca, Peru

Cindie's Daily Journals
Peru #1 JOURNAL

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Peru #1 Riding Between The Extremes

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Peru #1 THUMBS

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- The Ecuador Border to Chiclayo, Peru
- Chiclayo to Trujillo, Peru
- Casa De Ciclista, Peru Cyclist House
- The Ruins of Chan Chan
- Ruins - Temple of the Moon and Sun
- Trujillo to Huallanca, Peru
- Huallanca to Huaraz, Peru
- Huarez to Pachapaque
- Pachapaqui to Huallanca

 

Sept. 15 - Oct. 31, 2003
Peru #2
Huallanca, Peru to
Copacabana, Bolivia

Cindie's Daily Journals
Peru #2 JOURNAL

Tim's Emailed Newsletters (Join  List)
Peru #2: Been Doing Some Hard Traveling

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Peru #2 THUMBS

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- Huallanca to Huanuco
- Huanuco to La Oroya, Peru
- Arequipa, Peru
- Cusco, Peru
- Tambo Machay, Pucapucara, Qenqo
- Sacsayhuaman, Inca Ruin
- Machu Picchu #1
- Machu Picchu #2
- Machu Picchu #3
- Cusco to Santa Rosa, Peru
- Santa Rosa, Peru to Copacabana Bolivia
- Uros, Peru Lake Titicaca

 

November 1 - December 8, 2003
Bolivia
Copacabana to Villazon, Bolivia

Cindie's Daily Journals
Bolivia JOURNAL

Tim's Emailed Newsletters (Join  List)
Bolivia: The Calm After the Storm.

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Bolivia THUMBS

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- Copacabana, Bolivia on Lake Titicaca
- Todos Santos - Day of the Dead
- Copacabana to La Paz
- La Paz to Oruro
- Oruro to Quillacas
- Quillacas to Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia
- Salar de Uyuni Salt Lake to The City of Uyuni

 
(December 9, 2003 - January 22, 2004)
NW Argentina
La Quiaca, to La Cueva, (border with Chile) Argentina

Cindie's Daily Journals
Cindie's North West Argentina Daily Journal

Tim's Emailed Newsletters (Join  List)
Northwest Argentina: The Wrong Way In the Right Country 

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Pictures of  North West Argentina

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- Quiaca to Tilcara
- Tilcara to Salta
- Salta to Cafayate
- Cafayate to Belen
- Belen to Mendoza
- Parque National Talampaya
- Valle De Luna Provincial Park
- Mendoza to La Cueva
- Aconcagua National Park

 
January 23 - February 29, 2004
Chile
Portillo, Chile to Bariloche, Argentina

Cindie's Daily Journals
Cindie's Chile Daily Journal

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coming!

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Thumbnails of Chile

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- Portillo to Los Andes
- Temuco to Parqua National Conguillio
- Conguillio National Park to Villarrica
- Villarrica to Playa Pucara
- Playa Pucura to Puerto Pirihueico
- Bariloche, Argentina Velodrome

 
March 3, to 23, 2004
  Patagonia, South America
 Argentina and Chile

Cindie's Daily Journals
Patagonia

Tim's Emailed Newsletters (Join  List)
coming!

Best Place to see Pictures
Patagonia THUMBS

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- Southern Patagonia Birds
- Perito Moreno Glacier, (Before rupture)
- Perito Moreno Glacier (After rupture)
- Torres Del Paine National Park #1
- Torres Del Paine National Park #2
- Torres Del Paine National Park #3
- Torres Del Paine National Park #4
- El Chalten  - Fritz Roy
- Cuevas los Manos, Rock Art


- My First Jewish Passover
- Ski Argentina Cerro Cathedral
- Fall in Bariloche
- Cerro Campanerio
- Cerro Lopez
- Nordic Cross Country Skiing Bariloche, Argentina

1North and
Central America
3-30-02 to 4-17-03

2 South America
6-3-03 to 6-17-04

3 SE Asia / China
11-22-04 to
9-15-06

4 Australia
9-15-06 to 9-15-07

5 New Zealand
9-16-07 to 5-2-08
6 Alaska, Canada, and the USA
5-3-08 to 4-30-10
7 India. Nepal, and the Subcontinent
5-1-10 to present
Where am I  now

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